2017 Domaine Fontaine-Gagnard Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru "La Maltroie"

SKU #1436657 89-91 points Vinous

 Pale yellow. Pear and white flowers on the nose. Concentrated but stony and closed on the palate, showing less fruit in the early going than the Chenevottes. Tactile, salty wine with good breadth but only moderate length and grip. Incidentally, these virused, very old (about 70 years) vines, which typically yield very small grapes, produced less than 40 hectoliters per hectare in 2017 after suffering badly from the frost in 2016, and Céline Fontaine told me that they need to be replanted soon. (ST)  (9/2018)

90 points Allen Meadows - Burghound

 (from Ez Crets). There is a whiff of exotic fruit to the resin, pear, melon and white peach aromas. Like the Chassagne villages, the medium weight flavors are also quite supple and succulent, indeed even opulent, though there is good focus to the balanced, clean and dry finale.  (6/2019)

90 points John Gilman

 Céline Fontaine has sixty year-old vines in Maltroie and she notes that these vines always produces bunches with tiny berries, so there is always excellent depth in this wine from the fine skin to juice ratio. The 2017 has turned out very nicely, but again, this is one of those forward, 1992 lookalikes in the cellar this year, as it offers up a fine nose of apple, pear, almond, stony soil tones, spring flowers and vanillin oak. On the palate the wine is full-bodied, complex and juicy on the attack, with a good core, fine mineral drive, a sound framing of acidity and very good length and grip on the easy to drink and easy to love finish. Good juice. 2018-2040+.  (1/2019)

K&L Notes

92 points Jasper Morris Inside Burgundy: "From two plots, that in Ez Crets being old and somewhat degenerate vines. Pale lemon in colour. The first impression is of a strict and tense nose, indeed there is excellent tension on the palate too, no more than middleweight but very clean and pure." (01/2019)


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Price: $69.99

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Varietal:

Chardonnay

- It's hard to believe that up until about 30 years ago, this extremely popular varietal hid behind the veil of geographical names like Chablis and Puligny-Montrachet. Now grown all over the world and bottled by its varietal name, Chardonnay has achieved a level of branding unlike any other wine. Surprisingly, though, what you get when you buy Chardonnay can differ greatly from country to country and even within one country, depending on the climate where it's grown and how it is vinified and aged. From fresh, crisp and minerally with apple and lemon notes to rich and buttery with tropical fruit overtones, Chardonnay runs the gamut. In France's Burgundy, Chardonnay is the source of the prized wines of Chablis, Corton-Charlemagne, Mâcon, Meursault and Montrachet. It also the foundation of exceptional Champagne, where it is blended with Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier or vinified on its own into Blanc de Blancs. It is also extremely popular in California, and is gaining popularity in Australia, New Zealand, Italy, Spain and South Africa.
Country:

France

- When it comes to wine, France stands alone. No other country can beat it in terms of quality and diversity. And while many of its Region, Bordeaux, Burgundy and Champagne most obviously, produce wine as rare, as sought-after and nearly as expensive as gold, there are just as many obscurities and values to be had from little known appellations throughout the country. To learn everything there is to know about French wine would take a lifetime. To understand and appreciate French wine, one only has to begin tasting them.
Sub-Region:

Burgundy

- The province of eastern France, famous for its red wines produced from Pinot Noir and its whites produced from Chardonnay. (Small of amounts of Gamay and Aligoté are still grown, although these have to be labeled differently.) The most famous part of the region is known as the Côte d'Or (the Golden Slope). It is divided into the Côte de Beaune, south of the town of Beaune (famous principally for its whites), and the Côte de Nuits, North of Beaune (home of the most famous reds). In addition, the Côte Chalonnaise and the Mâconnais are important wine growing regions, although historically a clear level (or more) below the Côte d'Or. Also include by some are the regions of Chablis and Auxerrois, farther north.
Specific Appellation:

Chassagne Montrachet

- A long, wandering village in the Côte de Beaune. Fortunately, what the workaday village lacks in charm, the wines more than make up for. Most famous for its white wines, which are lovely and delicate, Chassagne-Montrachet actually produces more red than white wine. It is one of the few places in the Côte D'Or where both red and white wines are produced from Premier Cru vineyards. The Grands Crus are Montrachet, Bâtard Montrachet (both shared with the neighboring village of Puligny) and Criots Bâtard Montrachet.